Exploring Pašman and Ugljan Islands

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Often not considered by travelers, both Pašman and Ugljan are actually one of the best kept secrets of Dalmatia. The islands used to be one big island back in the distant past but, with the rise of sea level, they got separated in, where is today, Ždrelac village. The canal to enable safe sailing between the islands was dug out in 1883. and  bridge was erected in 1979. The bridge was reconstructed in 20010 due to heavy traffic from nearby marinas to Kornati Islands National Park.

The forecast was great and sunny for January Sunday so we hopped in our Hilux and headed to Biograd ferry harbor for a short, 20 minute crossing to town of Tkon on Pašman island.

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The view of Čokovac monastery and the Pašman channel

The idea was to drive the coastal route all the way to the end of Ugljan, Muline village, find a place for grill and lunch before heading back the scenic but offroad route of the “other” coast of Pašman island starting from Ždrelac.

Of course, there were stops along the route and the first one was Čokovac monastery overlooking the most beautiful channel of Dalmatian coast – Pašman channel with its 12 islands and rocks. Snow-capped Velebit mountain was shining in the distance.

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The walls of Čokovac

The history of Čokovac Benedictine Monastery is quite a turbulent one. Back in 1125. Biograd was completely destroyed by the Venetians. They also destroyed, once famous, Benedictine monastery of St. John the Evangelist in very Biograd after which the monks first took shelter in Šibenik, and later came back to the island of Pašman. The Chapel of St. Cosmas and Damian was already on the hill of Čokovac, so the monks built a Romanic church and a fortified monastery. The Venetians destroyed it in 1345 and imprisoned the monks. The mosnatery was reconstructed only in 1418. For its exceptional contribution (which is a bit vague), the monastery gained some sort of autonomy confirmed by several popes. It is believed that the monks accepted the invitation of the Czech King Charles IV to preach Glagolitic and Slavic language. Also, there are assumptions that the monastery was in possesion of the first form of Glagolitic scripts in liturgical texts, as numerous old Glagolitic scripts from the 13th century have been preserved. Today, the monastery church holdsa large Gothic style crucifix dating back to the 15th century attributed to a Venetian painter Menegelo. Besides the crucifix, the monastery also holds a precious portrait of the Virgin Mary. These are the only exhibits of this sort conserved after the French government closed the monastery in 1808. Over 150 years later, during socialist Yugoslavia, the Monastery was reopened in 1961. This is the only active Benedictine monastery in Croatia and definitely an important part of our heritage well worth preserving and visiting.

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The monastery church

The monastery  is available to visitors from June 1st to October 31st between 4.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m. or by appointment.

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The walls of Čokovac

This is the only active Benedictine monastery in Croatia and definitely an important part of our heritage well worth preserving and visiting.

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The view of the mainland through the cypress trees

And then it was time to continue. Next stop: coffee at Deloro in Pašman tow. It is just sad to see all the newly built apartment buildings all over the island. The island has been loosing population rapidly (as most of our islands have) and the islanders have always been supporting the idea of construction of a bridge to the mainland.

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The view of the mainland over Pašman

We passed all the small villages en route without really going into the historic centers: Kraj, Pašman, Barotul, Neviđane, Banj, Dobropoljana… all tiny villages by the sea. Crossing the bridge we were on Ugljan and what is the visit to Ugljan without stopping at Kali! Kali is a primarily fishermen town and the town with the largest fleet on our coast. For years,they were fishing in the Pacific ocean. Little is known even today that Croats invented pretty much everything worth inventing in fishing in World  20th century: from the power block (Puretich) that was found on EVERY fishing boat in the World to factory boats and even tuna farming.

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Winter morning in Kali

Ante Dundov Kongo from Kali was one of the most important fishermen of the 20th century and he was primarily bringing men from Kali to fish tuna in the Pacific. The story goes that he was once talking to a Japanese fisherman from Osaka who was wondering how many people are in his town and Kongo said 700. The Japanese fisherman could not believe saying that almost every boat in the Pacific he meets was operated by the folks from Kali!

But those days are now gone and Kali is more of a sleepy village remembering its glorious past.

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There is also a story that Kongo’s old mother said to  him that he was taking all the men away and there will be no one to bury her. He was deeply moved by her words and started bringing locals on three month contracts only so they could return and invest money back home.

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We passed other tiny villages like Sutomišćica where I have to go back to eat at their well known Olive Bay restaurant. The next stop was the sleepy village of Muline at the very Northern tip of Ugljan.

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The Adriatic does not get more clear than this!

The village is very sleepy and almost no one on the streets and in the harbor. Just nets drying…

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We also saw sea quite a few sea urchins. All female! All decorated for ball!

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We took the side, dirt road to reach the asylum on the western shore of Ugljan but it was not possible to get there even with our Hilux. So we got back on the main road and drove to the asylum. Just to the left is a narrow dirt road that leads to a very lovely beach.

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The beach is actually very busy in peak season and a place to avoid but, out of July and August, it is quite nice and, in the winter months, simply perfect!

There is a narrow trail leading through the bushes to another beach (even more secluded) and it goes through the abandoned asylum cemetery.

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The asylum cemetary

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Most people have been buried here before the 1970…

The second beach is also cute and with a small island connected by a narrow strip. The island is full of seagulls. And the water is very clear with few rare inhabitants like this noble pen shell.

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Lunch was quick and it was time for a short rest and a second part of the day: an offroad ride along the Pašman’s western coast. It is, basically, a dirt road carved through the bushes to enable firefighters to deal with potential fires that are common here.

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However,  many used the opportunity to build small “Robinson style” huts on these virgin shores. Mostly illegal and mostly ugly. There are few really charming and special but most are just simple devastation. There is nothing “Robinson” about them now as there are dozens of them in each cove…

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The views are just stunning. On both sides of t Pašman!

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Kornati in the distance

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Looking back at the bridge of Ždrelac

And we reached the highest point, Veliki Bokolj with little effort (not for regular cars!)

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Photo-shoot at the top

The view point has been built by the donation of the Norwegian government.

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The view of Mrljane and Barotul with Vransko jezero lake in the distance

The entire route we crossed is about 20 km long and it was one of the prettiest off road routes on the coast with plenty of great spots to see and a possibility to go all the way to the sea for swimming in the warmer months.

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Straža view point.

The roads near Tkon go to several directions but we decided to go back on a 4:20 PM ferry so this will be explored next time. With only 3100 inhabitants and over 60 km2 surface area, Pašman is one of the larger and least inhabited of Croatian islands. Combined with Ugljan, it makes one very special part of the Adriatic that deserves more attention and better future.

Dolac Market in the Winter Morning

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Dolac market is always on my list of places to visit when in Zagreb. Last month we had some stuff to do in the city so we went one morning to check the offer and to buy some local delicacies (home made cream, butter…) before heading south.
Zagreb is usually quite “gray” in the winter months with fog covering the entire city. Here, it started to clear and only the tall bell towers of Zagreb cathedral are still in the mist.

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Zagreb cathedral on a foggy morning.

No mater what direction you take, all roads take you to Dolac. Many people do their shopping at Dolac as the best and finest produce from all over Croatia can be found there.
It is also a very popular tourist attraction.

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Dolac is waking up…

There are several sections of the market and most popular is the colorful, outdoor part where all the vegetables and fruit stands are. It is the hart of Dolac and a typical, lovely green market full of people, noise, smiles…

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From leek to lemons

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More greens

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Catching up on latest news

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Potatoes from Zadar region

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Cauliflowers of all sorts

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With cathedral in the background

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Love the color of radish

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Cabbage

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Greens for soup

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Doing some  serious business

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Wheat

Besides vegetables and fruit, there are several stands that sell traditional wicker baskets and other traditional objects that are now mainly serving as souvenirs.

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Wicker baskets stands

And then we went to a lower section of the market. Most of the shops and stands below are selling more perishable stuff. There are some unique little stores that sell their own pasta, butchers selling meat, imported fruits…

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Foreign fruits

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Small market

But the real treasure is in a cool hall that sells mostly local home made cream, cheese, butter… This is something Zagreb folks (and all of us Croatians) are very proud of and

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All home made goodies!

But the most interesting person in all of the market is the granny

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Traditional corn flour bread!

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Sampling

Poplar are also the flower stands just between the main square and Dolac. A great variety of flowers is available and, in December, lots of Christmas flower decorations are on offer.

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Flower baskets

Zagreb is a very fun place all year round. Christmas time is especially popular and lots of people are flocking to Zagreb to enjoy the city. It’s been voted best Christmas destination in all of Europe in 2015!

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Monument of Ban Jelačić

While the nights are lit by all those lovely decorations and Christmas lights, days are, typically for this part of year, gray.  But, at this time of year, it is still fun and there are lots of people on the streets: shopping, drinking mulled wine, sipping coffee outdoors or inside many bars…

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Manduševac decorated for Christmas.

Zagreb is a great place to visit. Any time of year!

The hilltop fortress of Lišane

This winter continues with beautiful weather. Perfect for hikes and exploring the sites I never visited before. It is simply amazing how many of those still are! And I keep finding new ones…

After few years I knew about it, I finally got the time to get to the Lišanska gradina (Lišane hilltop fortress). It is not easily accessible and, on foot – from the main road – it would take one over an hour or so to reach it. This was again time for my Hilux and solid off road experience through the bushes and rocky, narrow paths…

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On a satellite image, the fortress looks interesting but I knew it is not going to be easy to reach it. The terrain surrounding it looks quite rough even online…
We stopped after a while as it was impossible to drive through the very rocky terrain and we immediately noticed ancient road in front of us. It has all the characteristics of a typical Roman road with groves made by wheels for centuries.

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Ancient road carved in rock

The road to gradina is easy and quite clear. We noticed that road has been cleared and thought that it were the hunters that sometimes hunt in these areas. But then we noticed olive trees.

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The colors of Autumn

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Olive trees in the fields

Continuing towards the hilltop fortress, we noticed a proper and fenced olive orchard. It is fascinating not only that it is in the middle of nowhere and still looks stunning, but it is probably in the same location the ancient inhabitants of the fortress had their own olive orchard. Few thousand years ago…

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Ancient olive grove?

Continuing to the fortress, we noticed the Ostrovica rock in the distance. One of the most fascinating and mystical places in all of Dalmatia!

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Ostrovica in the distance

Lišanska gradina has not been properly explored and there are very few mentions of it in the specialized literature. It is well off any beaten paths but, obviously, it was located on a popular route as the ancient road we walked has been in use for many centuries. It has a great control of the neighboring area with sweeping views all the way to the sea (on a clear day).

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Views from gradina

The gradina itself is in a typical shape – main dry rock walls have fallen down many centuries ago and they are now just a pile of rocks surrounding the slope of the hill. The other part of the fortress is easily defended as it sits on a high cliff.

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View to the sea

The area within the walls is now just an empty, deserted plain with bushes and rocks all over. One cannot make too much sense of it without a proper excavation…

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Former living quarters

The slopes have some indication of gates but, again, it will need a professional eye to look at this.

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The entrance?

As the entire area, there is lots of evidence of wild boar in the area.

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Wild boar was here

As the sun sets early in these winter months, we had to head out to the car. We took the different route to admire the high southern cliff of Lišanska gradina. It is over 10 meters high in some places and looks quite impressive.

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Another beautiful place we leave behind. To enjoy the silence and bask in the winter sunset. Abandoned for eternity…