Ley lines in Croatia – Secret Dalmatia

I have been fascinated by mysteries and hidden, sacred knowledge ever since I first read “Holly Blood, Holly Grail” back in 8th grade and then continuing reading the sequels which elaborated more on the sacred architecture and sacred geometry. In other words, on connecting specific places on the maps of Europe, World…and finding shapes, straight lines, various patterns. The most famous of those lines – or ley lines as they are called – is St Michael line in England. There are numerous books and web sites  on the subject but one very “down to Earth” approach  can be found here.

St Michel and St Mary lines

So, as archaeology and history have been a passion of mine forever and reading all these books on “alternative” history, I always wanted to find something similar. And especially so as usually you don’t hear anything about Croatia (and Balkans in general) and we do have some fascinating mysterious sites and places! My only interesting discovery so far was the “temple” near Vrcevo. But that needs a lot more of work before it is “anything” but an interesting site: Read about it here.

And then I found it.

Ley line in Croatia

One evening, resting from a stressful day, I was looking at the map of North Dalmatia on Google Earth and realized that ancient site Asseria and Varvaria (Bribirska glavica) can be connected to Nin. Further south to Visovac Monastery on Krka river and further north to Pula and Brijuni Islands. I did not consider it quite important and besides, there are numerous more important sites and more “magical” than the ones I connected. But, when I looked closer, I realize that this line connects temples…

The Church of Our Lady of Visovac (green line)

The line starts/goes through straight through the church! Visovac has a very specific position and it is a natural (?) island on the river Krka. There are evidences of a Roman and possibly pre-Roman cultures. Then continuing north, the line goes through Varvaria or Bribirska glavica. Also called “Croatian Troy” for numerous layers of historic artifacts dating back to the prehistory, it was also a place that must have had numerous temples and churches. Did not find one on the map but considering that most of the site is still underground, anything is possible.

Bribirska glavica (Varvaria)

Not so far north, there is ancient Asseria.

 

Asseria

Yet another ancient site waiting to be excavated… Further north I expected it to connect through another important Roman city of Nedinium but it does not touch it but continues straight to the site of Roman temple in Nin.This was the largest Roman temple on the eastern Adriatic coast but Nin was inhabited 3000 years ago so it is likely that this was a site of a more ancient building/temple.

Nin and green line passing near the temple

Continuing further, the line continues over some islands but nothing of interest and I assumed it will connect to famous Nesactium – the oldest town in Istria – but instead it went through Pula. But not just through Pula: it crossed the Roman temple of Augustus in Pula…

Pula

The line further continues to the site of three Roman temples located on Brijuni – Veliki Brijun island.

Villa Rustica and temples in Brijuni

And then is where it gets tricky… I have no exact idea where the Brijuni temples were and how to pin point them on the map. This means that most sites connect on this line except the line in Nin which then, when connecting Brijuni and Visovac, can move between the church of Sv Križ and that largest Roman temple in Nin… Once I go to Brijuni and find it out, it will be more clear what places are connected.

Of curse, I also tried to connect the line further up from Brijuni and I stopped somewhere on Murano Island… but south I managed to pin point only one “important” site: The Templar Fortress of Rhodos.

Rhodos castle

Yes, I know – it does look like some Templar mystery now but I am staying away from any conclusions. It goes further to Gaza although I expected Jerusalem…
So what does all this mean? Ley lines are usually not straight lines but more of directions and places rarely connect in such perfect manner like on this line. There is a plethora of far more important and more sacred sites on this direction but none of them aligns this perfectly.
Yes, human eye and mind are “trained” to look for patterns and straight lines just like when we find familiar shapes looking at clouds but this is a bit “too perfect”.  With a number of sites on Croatian coast – and further south, it is possible that  I (or someone inspired by this) will find more than one alignment of historic places.

But it is a mystery…
If anyone has any questions or comments or wants to help out or share knowledge like this, send email to info@secretdalmatia.com

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Murtar cove

Dalmatian coast is full of hidden little coves that managed to escape main roads, apartment buildings, nearly any construction… Many of them are located on the coast but much more on the islands.  Murter Island had that (mis)fortune to be connected to the mainland by a bridge as the island is only few meters away from the mainland at Tisno. Most of the colorful villages like Betina and Jezera are now just a nasty mix of charming old architecture  and new apartment buildings… But the southern side – and western, if we want to be geographically correct – are full of paradise coves and rocky beaches. Most popular is Kosirina with the camp of the same name but that entire stretch is simply amazing. So, I was quite happy when, for the first time, I had a chance to visit Murtar: small cove that gave the name to the island of Murter.

Banchetti Family Summer house

There is a newly restored 18th century Banchetti Family Summer house, now owned by a German family. This summer residence of once mighty local noble family was burned to the ground but now is restored to quite a nice condition and the ongoing landscaping shows great care of the current owner.

…and they have a cute kitten!

In the November dusk, olive trees looked somehow more beautiful than ever…

Olive grove

…and then we went to the sea and small port that is a nice hiding place for numerous boats owned by the locals. It is a safe little harbor for local gajeta, leut and kaić - all traditional boats in Dalmatia.  Murtar has only two buildings: one home to a local family and ruins of an old fishing company warehouse. There was an ambitious plan to build a nice 4* resort/hotel here which would definitely be quite successful, but I like the calmness and peace of this place…

The sleepy harbor

Although with numerous interventions, it is still a typical Dalmatian harbor:  safe port for boats and place of eternal beauty. At least for us who are helplessly in love with Dalmatia

Gajete and leuti…

Colors of Murter Island

 

And the place offers these typical Dalmatian motifs of fishing boats in the harbor.

Back to the harbor before sailing out at night

Numerous are archaeological finds on Murter Island and there is a strange mound in this bay that some think served as a place where the signal light was lit for the boats coming back to the harbor. Not sure if I would build something like that on that spot but… Looks more like an important grave or something similar. Nevertheless, Murtar is a lovely bay, worth visiting in all seasons and, in the summer time, offers some of the nicest and not crowded swimming spots.

Overlooking Kornati…

The cove is easy to reach from Jezera: first right to the non paved road and follow that road to the end. Not in the best condition so drive slowly but well worth the short detour!

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Archaeology tour of North Dalmatia

North Dalmatia offers a wealth of truly spectacular archaeological sites mostly unknown to the general public. From the immense riches of thousands of years of continuous living on Bribirska glavica hill, to mysterious rock on top of Ostrovica and all the way to Vrana, in less than 50 km! Without even mentioning at least 5 very important spots.

So, the first stop was fascinating Bribirska glavica also called Croatian Troy for it’s layers upon layers of history, monuments, stories and legends. Some proven, some not – Bribirska still stands as one of the most important archaeological site in the entire country. But, like on most spots of such importance, there were only sheep to accompany us. And provide very authentic soundtrack, too.

Bribirska glavica

When it comes to archaeology: neolithic, Pre-illyiran and Illyrian architecture, Romans, Croatians, Turks, Venetians, Serbian graves… all that one can visit and see while visiting this vast site. Probably the most interesting monuments are believed to be built by ancient Illyrians – the megalithic wall structures at the entrance of Illyiran/Roman Varvaria seen bellow.

Megalithic walls of ancient Varvaria

Then on to touring the medieval section where the mighty Subic family once ruled from and enjoying some quite interesting parts of Roman thermae before continuing forward.

Medieval section of Bribirska glavica: inside the cathedral

But not before we stopped at he very bottom of Bribirska glavica to drink from Bribišnica water and admire one of the cutest little historic bridges in Dalmatia.

Bridge over Birbišnica

And then we were off to Ostrovica: seen on this picture as the pyramidal structure in the distance.

Ostrovica and it's pyramidal hill seen in the distance

Ostrovica used to be one of the most important and impenetrable forts Dalmatia that was captured by Turks only by treason.The entire fortress was blown to bits by the Venetians when they conducted the military operations  in late 1600s in fear that the Turks may come back. Since then, all we have is the huge rock on top of the hill. The rock – often called Mačkov kamen for Mačak family that lived bellow – is believed to have been part of the ancient cult of Illrians or pre-Illyrians.
Now, it is superb place to visit and offers breathtaking views. For all fans of Lord of the Rings: this is Minas Tirith in real life! With fortress on top, town (village) bellow and a vast plain where Orcs were invading…

Ostrovica (image taken last winter)

One can drive up fairly close to the very summit but some hiking is required and some caution as the very slopes are fairly steep and with lots of small rocks and stones that can send you sliding downhill.
Once up, we had a small snack break sun tanning right bellow the very rock…

Resting beneath Mačkov kamen

As the Noon was near, we headed to Šopot for some authentic tastes of lamb and veal peka…

Lamb

… and finishing everything with tasty classic of the region: Benkovački prisnac for dessert!

Benkovački prisnac

After the lunch, we headed to Asseria for some more megalithic walls and little known Roman ruins. As one of the most amazing fortified towns, Asseria is still very impressive and just the first glance at the shear size of stone blocks is making everyone realizing that this was a very special place! So we toured the walls, ancient forum (now the cemetery) and eastern entrance to Asseria…

Asseria

And all that followed by smoke coming from the folks cleaning their fields and reminding us that spring is just around the corner.

Almonds in bloom

And then we headed south to Vrana. Probably the most interesting historic place in Croatia with:
- remains of 42 km long aqueduct from cave in the hill to Zadar
- historic fortress that was headquarters of Templar rule in Croatia
- home of Lucian Vranjanin – Croatian artist that was hired by French court and brought the Renaissance to France
- Maskovica caravan serai as the best preserved, most western example of Turkish architecture in Europe

Most other historic places in Europe have one or two attractions but they also have much better management…

Cave the Roman aqueduct was passing through

And we also spotted common buzzard showing off high in the sky!

Common buzzard

But since my friends were most intrigued by the Templars and their heritage, we spent most of the time inside the ruins of the fortress. Again, destroyed by the Venetians – the worse rule we ever had but hey, as Christians, they were far more acceptable than the Muslim Ottoman Turks.

Entrance to Vrana fortress

And we were even in luck to find the doors to Maskovica Han (caravan serai) open so the guy running it gave us a tour and explained a bit about EU giving us about 1,5 mil Euros to restore this fascinating monument and making it into a very special and unique heritage-hotel! Really looking forward to it!

Islamic architecture

This beautiful day we ended with stopping at must-see panorama point over Vransko jezero lake where we got right in time for a beautiful sunset (although it was misty).

I cannot resist this place...

So, I already have a plan that we incorporate this tour (with minor modifications) into our travel in Croatia projects like Secret Dalmatia and Tours in Croatia. and, as my companions on this trip were more than great (really an exceptional group!), I am happy to join them in other adventures we will plan together!