Budva and Sv Nikola Island

So, I chose one of my new favorite places to write about and this Aman Sveti Stefan resort in Montenegro is just that. The place where I could move to! I have been reading and seeing some images about it but that is nothing compared to the first time one actually steps in front of this place.  Yes, it does look pretty from the panorama point in front of the actual island and it is pretty from the air but I was always allured by it’s “silence”, some magical quietness as I never saw people there…

Aman Sveti Stefan

It was strange to me, even as I was a kid, that this island was empty and that I never saw images of old people dressed in black, donkeys, boats… It was always just Sv Stefan – the ultimate in Yugoslav tourism.
And then, war came and Sv Stefan is now in Montenegro. Some smart folks decided to invest in restoring it’s original grandeur and Sveti Stefan became again the most prestigious resort on this side of the Adriatic. This time under the brand of Aman  – the ultimate in luxury stay.

Aman Sveti Stefan

What’s so special about Sveti Stefan? It would be easier to answer what is not! From the meticulously maintained Mediterranean gardens, typical stone cottages restored to offer the ultimate in luxury, privacy, scents and sounds of Adriatic pounding the cliffs bellow the village…to the perfectly trained staff and 6 restaurants for only 59 accommodation units!

Bathroom

The interiors of the cottages and suites are done in a tastefully rustic way with emphasis on clean lines, warm materials and lighting. Very inviting in every aspect! Every cottage is decorated differently but the traditional aspect is preserved by keeping traditional windows and doors as well as wood and stone materials throughout.

Seating area

The very village fo Sveti Stefan dates back to the 15th century when people were looking for prefect defense points from the Turks and eventually became a pirates nest. The church of Sveti Stefan is on the highest point of the island and it was built to celebrate a victory over a Turkish fleet near the island of Sveti Nikola. Money taken from Turks came handy! In it’s heyday, it used to be a home for about 400 people but, with Turkish threat diminishing from Montenegro in 1800s, island was slowly abandoned.

Typical Sveti Stefan Cottage

There is something sad about a former village where children used to laugh and play, donkeys and goats lived in stables bellow the living area, men and women used to laugh and cry… being turned into an exclusive resort. Closed to public, Sveti Stefan is reserved only for the richest. It offers the ultimate in luxury and that is seen from the moment you step on that narrow path connecting it to the mainland over pink sands (pebbles), to the service and beautifully designed relaxing areas across the resort.

Pool area … one of them

With terraces overlooking the Adriatic and enjoying nice breeze, one can really enjoy a proper holiday. Book in one hand, something cold in another, and there you have a perfectly relaxing holiday! And if you get hungry, any of the superb restaurants can fix something great.

One of the restaurants

We had few hours at the island inspecting and discussing different possibilities. There is something so magical and unique about it that it keeps me wanting to go back.
…and to send some great clients who will know how to appreciate this unique place! No mater if you are looking for an amazing honeymoon spot or just a quiet and relaxing stay away from the World, Aman Sveti Stefan is one of those very special hotels in the world that really make a difference.

Just sea and rock… in the shade of a pine tree

Both famous for their beauty and historic places, Croatian and Montenegrin coast holiday are truly top destinations in the Mediterranean! We offer now some great travel packages combining both destinations.

Fosa harbor

The meal was a tasting menu and, being pretty much the only guests at the restaurant, we had all the attention. I assume is nowhere near that in the summer time but still, the staff seems quite professional and chef – who is also a manager – came from Istria and that brings a more professional attitude. We, Dalmatians are still a bit too relax to run a high end restaurant I would say. Apart from Pelegrini, there are very few restaurants on the entire coast that provide service at this level.

Fosa – the interior

Although the interior is modern and quite stylish, the most beautiful part of the restaurant is the famous terrace as one of the most romantic settings on the entire coast! It was closed in December, of course but definitely visiting this summer!

Interior

For a meal, we decided to go with Menu 3. Pretty much a tasting menu but the chef did some changes to it so we had a very special treat. Fosa is a fish restaurant and well known for the quality of ingredients and , under this new chef, it got a very modern touch!

For starters…

Swiss chard soup with fried fish

Roman gnocchi in Venus clam soup

Grilled fish filet on leek scallion puree

And then, while we were barely breathing, the dessert came:

Chocolate souffle

One of the best meals in a while! Cost: 185 kn per person or cc 25 Euros. And then this restaurant is regarded as an expensive… (check their online menu for prices).
Yes, the wine we ordered was pricey but it all depends on your preferences.
The menus and prices, and more information, can be found on their web site: www.fosa.hr
When in Zadar, and if you are into fine dining or just looking for a great setting, Fosa is our first choice. We are always suggesting it to guests traveling in Croatia with us and never had a bad review!

Zavala

The ride to Scedro is easy and fairly short on a beautiful day like we had. The monastery bay looks hidden when approaching till the little cove starts opening. It opens fully to a very charming group of fishermen huts. Typical Dalmatia.

Typical Dalmatia – frozen in time

But my main interest – besides a restaurant, of course, were the ruins of the monastery nearby.

Monastery

The monastery was abandoned in the 19th century when, according to legend, last monk took down the main doors and sailed across – to Zavala on Hvar Island – on those very doors! I guess he felt lonely since there was no one else left on the island. The oldest remains are from the 11th century and still standing but the main building suffered greatly and the roof does not exist any more. Nevertheless, it is one amazing place!

Interior of the oldest building

Pavo was showing us the interior and even graffiti done by his ancestors marking when they first came to Scedro! Some of them are 100 years old.  There is no one really living there year round but, in the summer time, they even have guests in their apartments. That must be one wonderful family holiday! Especially in a shallow and safe bay as this one is!

Shallow bay

While the bread and fish were being prepared, we decided to go to other, more popular bay. There are three restaurants there and the  bay is bigger but the one with a monastery is far more beautiful. In the other bay we met one of the restaurant owners who also told us about mehunja grapes that I never heard before. Now nearly gone, it was once regarded as the finest off all white grapes of Hvar and neighboring region. Hard to believe when drinking bogdanjusa wine but… these guys know better.

Another bay

To get from one bay to another takes about 20 minutes. I noticed a very interesting burial mound by the road and there were traces of something that reminded me of roman roads but it just does not make sense to find it on this, god forsaken island off much bigger and important Hvar… And another curiosity is of a much later date: cars. Yes, there are cars on the island.

Hitchhiking on Scedro

Not too many of them but there are several still active Lada Nivas. The only car rugged enough to survive this terrain. They were brought here by tying together two boats and loading a car on them in Zavala for this short but dangerous ride across to Scedro. Crazy! But it comes very handy when they are cutting wood or some vineyards works.
An then we returned to our secret cove. Hungry and in time for some grilled fish.

Catch of the day

But the true star of this meal – and everyone’s who ever decided to eat here – was the bread. The Bread!

The Bread!

This bread is one of top 3 I aver had. Ever! In any restaurant or homemade. The special mix of different flours and traditional baking technique, make this a true delicacy! And it is one big bread weighing around 4-5 kilos! Eating superb meal outside, in January, with great friends… I love what I do!
And with the winter sun slowly falling behind the hill, it was time to leave. Excellent bogdanjusa was keeping us warm while watching shores of Hvar getting closer.

Winter sunset in Zavala

Pavo’s father was taking us across and the monotonous sound of the engine was putting us to sleep. Or was it too much bogdanjusa?

Mr. Kordic

Scedro is definitely on our map. The true essence of Secret Dalmatia.

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Braja sledding grounds. Velebit in the distance

So, this past Sunday, it was that time of the year: pack up kids, whatever we have of real winter clothes, sleds and off we went to less than hour away Braja restaurant near Sv Rok. It is very easy to get to: turn to Sv Rok exit after the tunnel (first one) and drive maybe a kilometer or so. Big house and lots of parked cars during weekends. Most of them are Zadar plates but some were Šibenik and even Split. There is a small, three-animals-zoo featuring two wild boars, about a dozen deer, some chicken and some other poultry.  Just so it is interesting for kids if stopping in any other part of the year.

Deer

Wild boar

But the most important part of the complex is a sledding hill which is actually pretty good. Not to difficult and not too fast. Just right for children. They also have plenty of sleds for those who come unprepared.

Down the hill…

The problem on sunny days without any serious snow fall is that kids ruin the snow on the hill fairly fast and and then it is  mud sledding. But that did not seem to bother anyone. Well, since it was cold, I did not want to spend too much time outside so we went in to look for some Lika specialties this place is known for.

Traditional interior

Interior is nice. For 1979 standards. But I did not care. Bring Velebitsko pivo beer and bring food!

Velebitsko pivo

The menu is short: “What do you serve today?”

“Beans and home made sausages, “Lunch from Lika” and whatever else you want”

” Can we have a mixed meat platter?”

“Sure!”

And that was it. “Lunch from Lika” consists of sauerkraut, potatoes, cooked smoked meat and smoked sausages. All home made. Can’t be bad! So we ordered all three. It was cold outside, after all.

Lunch for three

The portions were huge! But the food is truly great and home cooking, traditional stuff at it’s finest. And when I only think of people who stop at Macola on the highway instead of this VERY short detour…  Macola will not see me any time soon, that’s for sure! So, no matter where you are driving, Braja should definitely be on your list for good quality, tasty food. And it is more then reasonable: 270 Kn for all that on the table + two beers+crepes.

The weakest part of the meal but I need my dessert

So, “Braja” is simply a winner. Nice, traditional place in the beautiful Lika countryside, excellent home cooking, something to keep kids amused…  Definitely worth a stop! They also have rooms to rent if you eat too much or don’t feel like driving.

Here are some contact details : http://www.gastronaut.hr/restoran.asp?id=5285 and more info but, just stop by. Well worth it!

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Grabovac estate in Imotski

We got there around Noon time and the stew was still cooking and it was cooking slowly as it was quite cold. The low temperatures prevented gas from flowing nicely so the chefs had a lot of trouble finishing everything. Next to them, grill was serving as a heater as well.

Cooking and warming up

Basically, whole fuss is about a priest coming and blessing the start of the new season of works in vineyards and tasting young wine.

The priest arrives…

Tools of the trade

And then it is some ceremonial works in the vineyard before we get back to eating and drinking.

One in charge

The food was ok. It did not really got cooked but who cared. We were there for wines.

And Grabovac has something to offer!

The selection at very affordable prices!

Once we got to the cellar, we had a chance to learn (and taste) more wines. Most of these are available in stores and restaurants but my personal opinion is that every restaurant in Dalmatia should have them on their list because they are quite modern and “playful” yet not pretentious or trying to be something they are not. Their most popular wines are “Modro Jezero” : couvee of merlot, trnjak (local wine), vranac and cabernet sauvignon – and sparkling wine “Grabovac”. This sparkling one is made of pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon.  Traditional method is used.

Grabovac sparkling wine – still on the rack

Once we go deeper in the cellar, true treasures started coming out of barrels…

Main cellar bellow the ground

Just to name two that impressed me the most.

Prošek – sweet, dessert wine is true Dalmatian classic that is so hard to find these days in it’s original form. At Grabovac, they have a barrel or two of this nectar and it it is mind blowing! Although not done the authentic method of drying grapes on the net but they instead, leave it to dry completely on the vine, it is probably one of top 3 prošek I had.

Milan Grabovac giving us a tour

Another one is their young blend Žilavka – Pošip. The one we tasted – 2012, the young one – was unbelievable! Very refreshing even at 0 degrees Celsius. If it stays like this, it will be the perfect summer wine and I can’t wait for summer heat to open a perfectly cooled bottle.

Grabovac wine cellar

As we were leaving Imotski behind and climbing into the gray winter hillside, wines of Grabovac kept us warm. The idea of showing this treasures to travelers and wine lowers materialized and our new program” Wines of Dalmatia’s Hinterland” will be offered to travelers from this spring.

Vineyard of Grabovac

Combining Grabovac and my friend’s traditional kujunđuša with some traditional meals of the region is simply a winner for travelers looking to escape crowds and go off  the beaten path. So, I look forward to Spring visit, more photos and checking out that Žilavka – Pošip again.

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St Michel and St Mary lines

So, as archaeology and history have been a passion of mine forever and reading all these books on “alternative” history, I always wanted to find something similar. And especially so as usually you don’t hear anything about Croatia (and Balkans in general) and we do have some fascinating mysterious sites and places! My only interesting discovery so far was the “temple” near Vrcevo. But that needs a lot more of work before it is “anything” but an interesting site: Read about it here.

And then I found it.

Ley line in Croatia

One evening, resting from a stressful day, I was looking at the map of North Dalmatia on Google Earth and realized that ancient site Asseria and Varvaria (Bribirska glavica) can be connected to Nin. Further south to Visovac Monastery on Krka river and further north to Pula and Brijuni Islands. I did not consider it quite important and besides, there are numerous more important sites and more “magical” than the ones I connected. But, when I looked closer, I realize that this line connects temples…

The Church of Our Lady of Visovac (green line)

The line starts/goes through straight through the church! Visovac has a very specific position and it is a natural (?) island on the river Krka. There are evidences of a Roman and possibly pre-Roman cultures. Then continuing north, the line goes through Varvaria or Bribirska glavica. Also called “Croatian Troy” for numerous layers of historic artifacts dating back to the prehistory, it was also a place that must have had numerous temples and churches. Did not find one on the map but considering that most of the site is still underground, anything is possible.

Bribirska glavica (Varvaria)

Not so far north, there is ancient Asseria.

Asseria

Yet another ancient site waiting to be excavated… Further north I expected it to connect through another important Roman city of Nedinium but it does not touch it but continues straight to the site of Roman temple in Nin.This was the largest Roman temple on the eastern Adriatic coast but Nin was inhabited 3000 years ago so it is likely that this was a site of a more ancient building/temple.

Nin and green line passing near the temple

Continuing further, the line continues over some islands but nothing of interest and I assumed it will connect to famous Nesactium – the oldest town in Istria – but instead it went through Pula. But not just through Pula: it crossed the Roman temple of Augustus in Pula…

Pula

The line further continues to the site of three Roman temples located on Brijuni – Veliki Brijun island.

Villa Rustica and temples in Brijuni

And then is where it gets tricky… I have no exact idea where the Brijuni temples were and how to pin point them on the map. This means that most sites connect on this line except the line in Nin which then, when connecting Brijuni and Visovac, can move between the church of Sv Križ and that largest Roman temple in Nin… Once I go to Brijuni and find it out, it will be more clear what places are connected.

Of curse, I also tried to connect the line further up from Brijuni and I stopped somewhere on Murano Island… but south I managed to pin point only one “important” site: The Templar Fortress of Rhodos.

Rhodos castle

Yes, I know – it does look like some Templar mystery now but I am staying away from any conclusions. It goes further to Gaza although I expected Jerusalem…
So what does all this mean? Ley lines are usually not straight lines but more of directions and places rarely connect in such perfect manner like on this line. There is a plethora of far more important and more sacred sites on this direction but none of them aligns this perfectly.
Yes, human eye and mind are “trained” to look for patterns and straight lines just like when we find familiar shapes looking at clouds but this is a bit “too perfect”.  With a number of sites on Croatian coast – and further south, it is possible that  I (or someone inspired by this) will find more than one alignment of historic places.

But it is a mystery…
If anyone has any questions or comments or wants to help out or share knowledge like this, send email to info@secretdalmatia.com

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Museum guarded by canons

Museum is “guarded” by an impressive collection of canons.

Habsburg coat of arms

Over the former drawbridge…

Now this is official list of their exhibits:

The Museum has several departments – Department of the history of Pula, Department of medieval Istrian history and the Department of modern Istrian history with adjoining collections (Cultural-historic collection of urban life, Collection of old postcards and photographs, Collection of maritime history and shipbuilding, Collection of economic development, Cultural-historical collection of suburban life, Collection of insignia, diplomas, seals and coats-of-arms, Coin collection, Collection of arms, uniforms and military equipment, Collection of film and video recordings, Collection of memoirs and phonographic recordings, Collection of significant persons and the recently established Collection of old maps. In the rich museum holdings (over 40,000 artifacts), particularly important is the collection of old postcards, maps and the collection of arms, uniforms, military and maritime equipment.

But, the museum collection is not attractively presented and the interiors are quite dated.

Old pharmacy – K. u. K. Marinespital Apotheke

The most impressive is – on permanent display – naval military pharmacy: K. u. K. Marinespital Apotheke. It was established in 1861. in a local hospital but only in 1990. it was transferred to the museum building and in 2005. it was opened to public. The pharmacy and all the artifacts on display are quite impressive!

My favorite part is, as mentioned,  the part that deals with maritime history.

Old figurehead

The collection consists of numerous objects on display dating from the oldest time of Istria’s maritime history. The home port of the Austro-Hungarian Navy was the Seearsenal (naval base) at Pula where it was moved from Venice. Supplementary bases included  Trieste and Kotor in Montenegro.  Both Trieste and Pula had major shipbuilding facilities. One of the largest dry docks in the Mediterranean of that time was located in Pula as well. The city of Pula was also the site of the central church of the navy “Stella Maris” (k.u.k. Marinekirche “Stella Maris”), of the Austro-Hungarian Naval Observatory and the empire’s naval cemetery or k.u.k. Marinefriedhof).

Times long gone…

Austrian rule in Croatia was not ideal but after them the Italians came also imposing their customs, language… The interventions to the museum building – which was still a fortress back then – were done by the fascist Italy.
A walk around the walls is quite nice!

Walk on the fortress walls

Overall, the museum is well worth visiting if you are interested in history and like a casual walk in a historic setting. Heart of Pula is quite charming although I don’t hear many people saying so and everyone only talks about the arena or the temple.

A watchdog

Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria has a website with more information but the web site is in Croatian and Italian only.

Address: Gradinski uspon 6, 52 100 Pula
Tel: 052/211-566, 052/211-740
Fax: 052/211-566
E-mail: pmi(at)pmi.hr
URL: www.pmi.hr

Hours:
Winter (1. October– 31. March): 09:00 – 17:00
Summer (1. April– 30. September): 08:00 – 21:00

Entrance ticket is 10 kn (1,5 E) for adults and half that for children.

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Lighthouse on Ricul

Ricul is easily reached from our home town and it is quite close to the mainland. In the past, evidence exists, the island was a peninsula  connected to mainland by a narrow strip of land but, with sea level rising, it became an island. The name is still a mystery and it is assumed it is Liburnian in origin but the meaning is unknown. The island was once connected to the village of Tukljača that was destroyed and sunk after the water level rose back in the Middle Ages. Now, part of the former village is a graveyard for the village of Turanj. The island – when looked at from the main road, clearly had terraces so it was used for some sort of agriculture or as a pasture…

Definitely not December weather!

The island offers great views and is one of my favorite relaxing spots – not too far from home but still seems like it is in the middle of nowhere…

View of Pašman Island in the distance

Once we got to the top of the island, we had a great view of heart-shaped Galesnjak island that recently started making all the headlines being the only natural heart shaped island on the planet.

Heart-shaped island of Galesnjak

The owners – some distant relatives of mine – decided it would be nice to plant olive trees so there are big “scars” going from one shore to another… It will recover but, with all the publicity the island got, there were much smarter investments to be made. Not in Croatia.

On the top, we disturbed a nice flock of wild pigeons. Once hunted, no one disturbs them any longer so there were over 60 birds flying above us in circles at one point.

Part of the flock of wild pigeons

The pigeons are hiding in a big hole/cave on the island. It is believed that the cave served for ritual purposes in the ancient times. Now, it is just an impressive hole! As a teenager, I went to the bottom and we actually found a small opening to another cave but the opening was too small for us to go through so we did not try it. The hole is about 8 meters deep.

The pigeon hole

The views from the top are beautiful: Muntan and Duzac Islands to your right, Komornink and Babac right in front, Biograd, Sv Filip Jakov, Turanj… Home.

Pasman channel

Yes, there are other beautiful parts of the Adriatic, but this is a very special one: sailing route to Venice for millenia, calm hideout from most of the storms and strong winds, archeological and historical paradise with remains from all epochs of human activity in Croatia.

As the sun set behind Pašman island, the weather turned cooler and it was time to go…

Ričul

Ricul can also be visited on our Heart Shaped Island picnic.

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Here’s an excerpt:

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Click here to see the complete report.

Banchetti Family Summer house

There is a newly restored 18th century Banchetti Family Summer house, now owned by a German family. This summer residence of once mighty local noble family was burned to the ground but now is restored to quite a nice condition and the ongoing landscaping shows great care of the current owner.

…and they have a cute kitten!

In the November dusk, olive trees looked somehow more beautiful than ever…

Olive grove

…and then we went to the sea and small port that is a nice hiding place for numerous boats owned by the locals. It is a safe little harbor for local gajeta, leut and kaić - all traditional boats in Dalmatia.  Murtar has only two buildings: one home to a local family and ruins of an old fishing company warehouse. There was an ambitious plan to build a nice 4* resort/hotel here which would definitely be quite successful, but I like the calmness and peace of this place…

The sleepy harbor

Although with numerous interventions, it is still a typical Dalmatian harbor:  safe port for boats and place of eternal beauty. At least for us who are helplessly in love with Dalmatia

Gajete and leuti…

Colors of Murter Island

And the place offers these typical Dalmatian motifs of fishing boats in the harbor.

Back to the harbor before sailing out at night

Numerous are archaeological finds on Murter Island and there is a strange mound in this bay that some think served as a place where the signal light was lit for the boats coming back to the harbor. Not sure if I would build something like that on that spot but… Looks more like an important grave or something similar. Nevertheless, Murtar is a lovely bay, worth visiting in all seasons and, in the summer time, offers some of the nicest and not crowded swimming spots.

Overlooking Kornati…

The cove is easy to reach from Jezera: first right to the non paved road and follow that road to the end. Not in the best condition so drive slowly but well worth the short detour!

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