2013/05/18 by Alan - secretdalmatia

Aman Sveti Stefan

For the past few months we have been very, very busy and almost no time for blogging. Not that I don’t have to blog about! Au contraire! I have dozens and dozens of most fabulous stories! But almost no time to write One of the highlights was definitely a fam trip to Montenegro coast last month. Besides Kotor, we also visited Sveti Stefan. But before that, we were mesmerized by the coast of Montenegro!

Budva and Sv Nikola Island

So, I chose one of my new favorite places to write about and this Aman Sveti Stefan resort in Montenegro is just that. The place where I could move to! I have been reading and seeing some images about it but that is nothing compared to the first time one actually steps in front of this place. Yes, it does look pretty from the panorama point in front of the actual island and it is pretty from the air but I was always allured by it’s “silence”, some magical quietness as I never saw people there…

Aman Sveti Stefan

It was strange to me, even as I was a kid, that this island was empty and that I never saw images of old people dressed in black, donkeys, boats… It was always just Sv Stefan – the ultimate in Yugoslav tourism.
And then, war came and Sv Stefan is now in Montenegro. Some smart folks decided to invest in restoring it’s original grandeur and Sveti Stefan became again the most prestigious resort on this side of the Adriatic. This time under the brand of Aman – the ultimate in luxury stay.

Aman Sveti Stefan

What’s so special about Sveti Stefan? It would be easier to answer what is not! From the meticulously maintained Mediterranean gardens, typical stone cottages restored to offer the ultimate in luxury, privacy, scents and sounds of Adriatic pounding the cliffs bellow the village…to the perfectly trained staff and 6 restaurants for only 59 accommodation units!

Bathroom

The interiors of the cottages and suites are done in a tastefully rustic way with emphasis on clean lines, warm materials and lighting. Very inviting in every aspect! Every cottage is decorated differently but the traditional aspect is preserved by keeping traditional windows and doors as well as wood and stone materials throughout.

Seating area

The very village fo Sveti Stefan dates back to the 15th century when people were looking for prefect defense points from the Turks and eventually became a pirates nest. The church of Sveti Stefan is on the highest point of the island and it was built to celebrate a victory over a Turkish fleet near the island of Sveti Nikola. Money taken from Turks came handy! In it’s heyday, it used to be a home for about 400 people but, with Turkish threat diminishing from Montenegro in 1800s, island was slowly abandoned.

Typical Sveti Stefan Cottage

There is something sad about a former village where children used to laugh and play, donkeys and goats lived in stables bellow the living area, men and women used to laugh and cry… being turned into an exclusive resort. Closed to public, Sveti Stefan is reserved only for the richest. It offers the ultimate in luxury and that is seen from the moment you step on that narrow path connecting it to the mainland over pink sands (pebbles), to the service and beautifully designed relaxing areas across the resort.

Pool area … one of them

With terraces overlooking the Adriatic and enjoying nice breeze, one can really enjoy a proper holiday. Book in one hand, something cold in another, and there you have a perfectly relaxing holiday! And if you get hungry, any of the superb restaurants can fix something great.

One of the restaurants

We had few hours at the island inspecting and discussing different possibilities. There is something so magical and unique about it that it keeps me wanting to go back.
…and to send some great clients who will know how to appreciate this unique place! No mater if you are looking for an amazing honeymoon spot or just a quiet and relaxing stay away from the World, Aman Sveti Stefan is one of those very special hotels in the world that really make a difference.

Just sea and rock… in the shade of a pine tree

Both famous for their beauty and historic places, Croatian and Montenegrin coast holiday are truly top destinations in the Mediterranean! We offer now some great travel packages combining both destinations.

2013/03/31 by Alan - secretdalmatia

Best Restaurants in Croatia – Fosa Restaurant, Zadar

Fosa restaurant in Zadar was long on my list but, with hectic work schedule, I simply could not find the time to visit. So, it was a special get together this past December when we decided to go to Foša for lunch. Although I have heard a ton of good stuff about the place, I was a bit skeptical as Zadar is not known for high end restaurants. I was wrong. This is a superb place!

Fosa harbor

The meal was a tasting menu and, being pretty much the only guests at the restaurant, we had all the attention. I assume is nowhere near that in the summer time but still, the staff seems quite professional and chef – who is also a manager – came from Istria and that brings a more professional attitude. We, Dalmatians are still a bit too relax to run a high end restaurant I would say. Apart from Pelegrini, there are very few restaurants on the entire coast that provide service at this level.

Fosa – the interior

Although the interior is modern and quite stylish, the most beautiful part of the restaurant is the famous terrace as one of the most romantic settings on the entire coast! It was closed in December, of course but definitely visiting this summer!

Interior

For a meal, we decided to go with Menu 3. Pretty much a tasting menu but the chef did some changes to it so we had a very special treat. Fosa is a fish restaurant and well known for the quality of ingredients and , under this new chef, it got a very modern touch!

For starters…

Swiss chard soup with fried fish

Roman gnocchi in Venus clam soup

Grilled fish filet on leek scallion puree

And then, while we were barely breathing, the dessert came:

Chocolate souffle

One of the best meals in a while! Cost: 185 kn per person or cc 25 Euros. And then this restaurant is regarded as an expensive… (check their online menu for prices).
Yes, the wine we ordered was pricey but it all depends on your preferences.
The menus and prices, and more information, can be found on their web site: www.fosa.hr
When in Zadar, and if you are into fine dining or just looking for a great setting, Fosa is our first choice. We are always suggesting it to guests traveling in Croatia with us and never had a bad review!

2013/02/09 by Alan - secretdalmatia

Scedro Island

This past fall I started talking to my guide Sonja and her boyfriend Pavo about visiting his restaurant on Scedro Island. General idea was to have a special place that will provide superb meal on a unique location and off the beaten path. Scedro is not a mystery but it is not the most popular place on the coast and I was always interested in visiting after I learned of an abandoned monastery. Few weeks back, the weather was finally on our side and I was able to accept the invitation. Early morning drive to Split harbor, two hour ferry and then through the tunnel to the sunny slopes of southern Hvar. Small harbor of Zavala was beautiful on a gorgeous January morning.

Zavala

The ride to Scedro is easy and fairly short on a beautiful day like we had. The monastery bay looks hidden when approaching till the little cove starts opening. It opens fully to a very charming group of fishermen huts. Typical Dalmatia.

Typical Dalmatia – frozen in time

But my main interest – besides a restaurant, of course, were the ruins of the monastery nearby.

Monastery

The monastery was abandoned in the 19th century when, according to legend, last monk took down the main doors and sailed across – to Zavala on Hvar Island – on those very doors! I guess he felt lonely since there was no one else left on the island. The oldest remains are from the 11th century and still standing but the main building suffered greatly and the roof does not exist any more. Nevertheless, it is one amazing place!

Interior of the oldest building

Pavo was showing us the interior and even graffiti done by his ancestors marking when they first came to Scedro! Some of them are 100 years old. There is no one really living there year round but, in the summer time, they even have guests in their apartments. That must be one wonderful family holiday! Especially in a shallow and safe bay as this one is!

Shallow bay

While the bread and fish were being prepared, we decided to go to other, more popular bay. There are three restaurants there and the bay is bigger but the one with a monastery is far more beautiful. In the other bay we met one of the restaurant owners who also told us about mehunja grapes that I never heard before. Now nearly gone, it was once regarded as the finest off all white grapes of Hvar and neighboring region. Hard to believe when drinking bogdanjusa wine but… these guys know better.

Another bay

To get from one bay to another takes about 20 minutes. I noticed a very interesting burial mound by the road and there were traces of something that reminded me of roman roads but it just does not make sense to find it on this, god forsaken island off much bigger and important Hvar… And another curiosity is of a much later date: cars. Yes, there are cars on the island.

Hitchhiking on Scedro

Not too many of them but there are several still active Lada Nivas. The only car rugged enough to survive this terrain. They were brought here by tying together two boats and loading a car on them in Zavala for this short but dangerous ride across to Scedro. Crazy! But it comes very handy when they are cutting wood or some vineyards works.
An then we returned to our secret cove. Hungry and in time for some grilled fish.

Catch of the day

But the true star of this meal – and everyone’s who ever decided to eat here – was the bread. The Bread!

The Bread!

This bread is one of top 3 I aver had. Ever! In any restaurant or homemade. The special mix of different flours and traditional baking technique, make this a true delicacy! And it is one big bread weighing around 4-5 kilos! Eating superb meal outside, in January, with great friends… I love what I do!
And with the winter sun slowly falling behind the hill, it was time to leave. Excellent bogdanjusa was keeping us warm while watching shores of Hvar getting closer.