Posted by: secretdalmatia | 2009/11/01

Olive Oil tour of Šolta – Tours in Croatia

On eof the most exciting new tours we introduced in 2009. was the Olive Oil tour of Šolta Island that was developed by our good friend Mr. Robert Aronson and fabulous small award winning olive oil producer Olynthia from the Island of Šolta.

Ancient roads still used

At the end of the season we usually inspect most of the people we work with and Šolta was first on the list. Frane Kaštelanac was waiting for us in Rogač ferry harbor. The day was quite cloudy and grim but still warm.

Our first stop was at one of the oldest olive groves on the island! Frane owns some of the oldest trees. Actually, the original tree is long gone but it’s offspring was forming a circle where once the original tree was standing!

Frane Kaštelanac

After we went over the techniques and new progress in his olive groves, we headed to the mill. Located in the picturesque Gornje Selo village, Olynthia’s mill is example of modern, small mills that are quite popular lately with a revival of olive growing in Croatia. The mill uses the latest Italian technology to produce the finest olive oil possible. The computerized process ensures high quality.

The Olynthia Mill

The very tour remains the same: upon arrival, the visitors are presented with the mill and introduced to the technology. The highlight is a video presentation of the story of Šolta olive oil and the Olynthia mill.
But the real highlight is at the table, of course!

The oil

After an introduction to proper olive oil tasting and tasting the oils, the visitors will have an opportunity, starting next year, to taste the flavored oils. Rosemary, garlic and lemon will be introduced later this year!

Next stop is a wonderful lunch!

Bruschettas to start with...

Garlic flavored oil is perfect for baked potatoes!

Shrimp risotto

The tour is a great success due to the fact that is very genuine and offered to small and private groups only to ensure top quality of the presentation and the very tasting at the mill.
In the future, this program will be combined with additional tasting like Dobričić wine or even famous Šolta honey…
Only a short ferry ride from Split, this makes a perfect day trip but can be adjusted for shore excursions from Split!

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Posted by: secretdalmatia | 2009/10/28

Bijela River – Secret Gem of North Dalmatia

Bijela rijeka is a small river flowing in the rain season (mostly Fall and Spring)  from the 300 meters high hill down to the Karin Sea near Zadar. Hard to spot from the street, it requires some easy hiking along a very dramatic canyon.

It has been a while since I wanted to go there since I heard a lot of nice things about it. It also protected area of exceptional beauty as part of the Zadar county special program that preserves the areas of unique beauty. It was always hard to find some time but today we had amazing sunny day with temperatures in the mid 20s (Celsius, about 70 F) and I just had to get out to get away from the computer, plans, projects…

Bijela River canyon seen from the dirt road

Karin is about 20 minutes north from Zadar. The village of Gornji Karin has some new houses on a hill and the dirt path to the Bijela River mouth is located at the very end of the new settlement. The canyon can be seen from far away but nothing can prepare you for the beauty of Bijela!

Bijela River canyon seen from the dirt road

The road follows the steep and fairly high canyon above the river. Since last week we had some serious rainfall, the river bed is quite rich with water. The numerous small cascades make wonderful noise and the puddles of turquoise water look like gems from high above!

The water is not always easy to cross and the rocks can be slippery on the way to the cave from which this river flows. The cave is well hidden but easily approached from several directions.

The 225 meters deep cave was surprisingly dry! I have heard a lot of stories of the water coming out with tremendous force but, probably due to lack of serious rainfall in the past two months, it was fairly dry inside.
I walked all the way to the second “room” but could not see much since I did not bring the flash light. But the sound of a waterfall inside the cave was quite exciting! For next time, I am planning to bring a flash light and waterproof boots for crossing the small lakes inside the cave. Haven’t seen any bats which surprised me.

The cave entrance

The water flows bellow the cave entrance and suddenly bursts out bellow two huge rocks.
The entrance, as I said, is quite dry although water is dripping from the ceiling.

The cave from inside

Bijela is one of the most beautiful examples of the dramatic beauty of Croatian karst landscape: cave, canyon, clear waters, waterfalls… It has it all!

Needles to say that the water is perfectly good for drinking!

The waterfalls

The access and crossings are for people ready for a bit of jumping and moderate walking up the hill. One or two crossings are a bit more demanding but that depends on the level of water in the river. There are several approaches to the cave. Some more demanding than the others but caution is necessary since the canyon is close to the main path and some of the rocks are slippery.

Bijela makes a perfect half day trip from Zadar and the region!

It is also good for shore excursions from Zadar if you are not in the mood for wine and food. Fir people who like hiking and the outdoors, it can be combined with a lovely trip to Karin mills – another pearl of this beautiful region! Fall and Spring are probably the best months for visiting the area!

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Posted by: secretdalmatia | 2009/10/26

Omis – The Pirates’ Nest of Dalmatia

This Sunday I was invited to Omiš to enjoy a walking tour of this historic town located right on the mouth of Cetina river.

Omiš has one of the most spectacular positions on Croatian coast matched maybe only by the location of Šibenik. That, and the very nature of the locals, enabled this tiny town to preserve it’s independence from the powers that were ruling Dalmatian coast at the time. History of Omiš is captivating and still alive!

The historic center with view of Mirabella fortress

The historic center with view of Mirabella fortress

Omiš was known as a settlement from the Roman times but the heyday came much later. As excellent seamen, Omis citizens, during 13th to the beginning of 15th century, controled navigation on the Adriatic Sea, focusing mostly on Venetian ships and their property in Dalmatia, as well as ships of Naples Kingdom. They were charging these powerful nations for free navigation. Omis pirates were extremely dangerous, especially under rule of powerful Omis rulers – dukes Kacic. In that time, Omis was known as dangerous nest of the pirates. As they were attacking Crusaders too, pope Honorius III undertook crusade against Omis’ pirates in year 1221, which Omis won, while the second war, in the year 1228, they lost. That was also the end of the rule of the Kacic dukes…

The modern harbor of Omis...

The modern harbor of Omis...

In 1409 Ladislav Napuljski sold Dalmatia to Venice, and Omis was finally conquered in 1444. With the fall of Venetian Republic Omis came under the Austrian rule, and it was under French rule until 1813, when it finally became the part of Austrian empire till the beginning of First World War.

Two churches out of total of 8!

Two churches out of total of 8!

Today, Omis is a lovely traditional town most people just pass through going south from Split. But there is so much to see and do! Especially of interest is wonderful historic heritage: 8 churches, one of Dalmatia’s oldest tavern still open to public, small and narrow streets and that spectacular views of Omis Dinara mountain overlooking the town, numerous very interesting historic fortresses and towers, Cetina river…
There is also a great sandy beach that makes Omis a great holiday spot for whole families. Besides beaches and culture, Omis is very close to Cetina river canyon and about 20 local agencies are offering rafting and canyoning on Cetina.

Mirabella fortress

Mirabella fortress

The weather was beautiful this Sunday so we decided to climb the steep steps to the Mirabella fortress. The signs are clearly marking all the historic monuments and they are easy to reach. Well…if you are in a good shape that is, since both Mirabella tower and Fortica fortress are located high in the hillside. Getting all the way up to Mirabella is not that demanding although it is not for elderly or people who have problems walking. There are few small panorama points after the entrance where you pay admission (10 Kn per person, 2009)

The view from Mirabella is a great reward for this climb!

Not only that one can see all the way to Brac and the islands, but the panorama of Omis itself is wonderful!

The view f Omis town from Mirabella fortress

The view f Omis town from Mirabella fortress

Mirabella fortress split in half in 1982. after a thunder struck the structure! One half of the tower collapsed down the hill and crashed several houses bellow. Luckily, no one was hurt!
Thanks to the powerful local politician who was in power at that time, fortress was fully restored.
Other fortresses demand more time: Fortica is at 300 meters over the sea level, other towers are lining the hillside along the canyon of Cetina…

The right bank of Cetina mouth under the steep sides of Omis Dinara

The right bank of Cetina mouth under the steep sides of Omis Dinara

Omiš makes a wonderful day trip from Split – perfect for shore excursions out of Split for people looking for historic little town and light activity. Of course, rafting is also a great option as well as hiking in the hillside of Omis Dinara.

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